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Back to PS print...I am constructing an enclosure for my Ender 3 3D printer.  This will allow me (fingers crossed) to print with ABS filament.  The issue I have is the cross bars supporting the wing sections.  After removing the supports from the print the cross bars come with it.  Using ABS filament the model will be stronger and allow for smoothing with acetone.  More later.  If this adventure is bugging anyone.  I can hold off reporting on my semi weekly trials.

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can only speak for myself, but i dont mind at all Mim,

 

i've read some bits about enclosures before, ppl seem to be converting IKEA LACK tables (55x55cm) into printing cabinets  

 

DIY enclosure

 

- ordered a Prusa Mini, should be arriving at the end of november, so hoping to get into this aswell.

 

 

 

 

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wheres my sledgehammer?? ima knock some walls down to make room for that baby, lol

 

IRL-scale progen warrior here i come

 

 

Edited by TempestNWK
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Tempest, have you played with any slicer apps yet? I currently use Cura and quite happy with it.  Some models I use Meshmixer to get tree supports, then xfer to Cura to slice. If you have not done so yet, get a roll of PLA to burn through as you learn.  It will tear you up getting your printer and finding all you get to print is the sample Benchy. 

 

 

Just saying,

Mim

 

P.S. did you notice the support for the boat?  Hint: Not tree support. 

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Yeah, i've had a short looks at cura before, although half the time i don't know what i'm looking at settings wise.

 

the thing i ordered should come with prusaslicer, ill give that a whirl first and then move to Cura.

 

as far as testing goes, i've come across this autodesk model quite a few times, so i might try that at some point.

 

 

the no-support thing is quite impressive yeah.

 

can't see the boating industry moving away from injection molds/fiberglass setups any time soon though, heh 

 

 

 

 

 

 

image-asset.jpeg

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The settings for most prints you will do, will come in when you select your printer.  After a few fails or near fails you can adjust your settings.  Again join a forum supporting your printer.  Most there are VERY happy to answer any question you might have.  FYI I am using a BLTouch for bed leveling.  You might look into that as it really does speed up setting up for a print.  

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  • 3 months later...

Finally got a model to print.  I can't tell you the attempts I made. I split the model in Meshmixer, and added support there. Sent to Cura 4 for printing. 46% fill PLA filament, extruder temp 210 C, bed temp 90 C.  If I can get some more space to upload files would love to share the STL(s)

 

https://imgur.com/a/N0FUs0f

 

Mim 

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  • 3 weeks later...

your PS looks nice Mim, ya sure picked the most complex model to start out with, heheh.

 

 

 

 

finally gotten my Prusa Mini delivered last week, they had a ridiculous backlog of orders, lol

 

waiting for materials now, IPA, tools & bits, stuff to get the printbed sticky etc..

 

1st few sample models came out pretty nice, perfect benchy (front end lifted a mm from the print at some point though) , some tiny whistle.

 

the machine does its bed-leveling process before starting a print. 

 

getting some upgrades for the main rig soon, and then i'll be able to get into slicer programs.

 

think i'll give the TT a go, nice and boxey.

 

 

 

 

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On 3/2/2020 at 12:53 PM, TempestNWK said:

your PS looks nice Mim, ya sure picked the most complex model to start out with, heheh.

finally gotten my Prusa Mini delivered last week, they had a ridiculous backlog of orders, lol

Great! 

waiting for materials now, IPA, tools & bits, stuff to get the printbed sticky etc..

Found that a good level bed is mostly all you need for good bed adhesion.  I tried Hairspray, tape, glass bed with dissolved ABS in acetone, Elmers  glue diluted in water. All pretty much worked the same unless I leveled the bed. 

 

1st few sample models came out pretty nice, perfect benchy (front end lifted a mm from the print at some point though) , some tiny whistle.

Lifting I have found can be either bad  bed adhesion in a particular spot or bed temp or rapid part cooling.  Shotgun approach for all should waste less filament.  

 

the machine does its bed-leveling process before starting a print. 

The original software in mine had no bed level, so went to a BLTouch, worked pretty good but only a 3 point.  Swapped out the controller board for a MKS Gen L. Marlin 1.1.9 with a 9 point level.  Lost access to the SD card but USB seemed to work great as long as I kept the cable short.  I tried to max the distance but had dropped prints. 

 

getting some upgrades for the main rig soon, and then i'll be able to get into slicer programs.

think i'll give the TT a go, nice and boxey.

 

On 3/2/2020 at 12:53 PM, TempestNWK said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

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What upgrades?

 

I went to direct drive so that I could get rid of the bowden tube.  Allows me to print flexible filament.  Would love to see some of your prints.  

 

Just sayin, 

Mim

 

P.S. Need to get the game installed on this box

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eh been pondering switching to Ryzen 3000..

 

1st benchy (after fiddling a while with the initial calibrations/Z-offset)

 

tried to see if i could print a Terran Trader cargo container without supports or infill, but messed up the scale…  came out tiny (but seemed okay otherwise)

 

https://imgur.com/a/JvwodwC

 

(excuse the potato-cam)

Edited by TempestNWK
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  • 1 year later...

I wouldn't mind seeing a fully upgraded Terran Enforcer ship with the STW33 and STH33 and STP23 And perhaps another Enforcer ship with STW13

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