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Mimir

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Posts posted by Mimir

  3. Posted

    What upgrades?

     

    I went to direct drive so that I could get rid of the bowden tube.  Allows me to print flexible filament.  Would love to see some of your prints.  

     

    Just sayin, 

    Mim

     

    P.S. Need to get the game installed on this box

  4. Posted

    On 3/2/2020 at 12:53 PM, TempestNWK said:

    your PS looks nice Mim, ya sure picked the most complex model to start out with, heheh.

    finally gotten my Prusa Mini delivered last week, they had a ridiculous backlog of orders, lol

    Great! 

    waiting for materials now, IPA, tools & bits, stuff to get the printbed sticky etc..

    Found that a good level bed is mostly all you need for good bed adhesion.  I tried Hairspray, tape, glass bed with dissolved ABS in acetone, Elmers  glue diluted in water. All pretty much worked the same unless I leveled the bed. 

     

    1st few sample models came out pretty nice, perfect benchy (front end lifted a mm from the print at some point though) , some tiny whistle.

    Lifting I have found can be either bad  bed adhesion in a particular spot or bed temp or rapid part cooling.  Shotgun approach for all should waste less filament.  

     

    the machine does its bed-leveling process before starting a print. 

    The original software in mine had no bed level, so went to a BLTouch, worked pretty good but only a 3 point.  Swapped out the controller board for a MKS Gen L. Marlin 1.1.9 with a 9 point level.  Lost access to the SD card but USB seemed to work great as long as I kept the cable short.  I tried to max the distance but had dropped prints. 

     

    getting some upgrades for the main rig soon, and then i'll be able to get into slicer programs.

    think i'll give the TT a go, nice and boxey.

     

    On 3/2/2020 at 12:53 PM, TempestNWK said:

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. Posted

    The settings for most prints you will do, will come in when you select your printer.  After a few fails or near fails you can adjust your settings.  Again join a forum supporting your printer.  Most there are VERY happy to answer any question you might have.  FYI I am using a BLTouch for bed leveling.  You might look into that as it really does speed up setting up for a print.  

  7. Posted

    Tempest, have you played with any slicer apps yet? I currently use Cura and quite happy with it.  Some models I use Meshmixer to get tree supports, then xfer to Cura to slice. If you have not done so yet, get a roll of PLA to burn through as you learn.  It will tear you up getting your printer and finding all you get to print is the sample Benchy. 

     

     

    Just saying,

    Mim

     

    P.S. did you notice the support for the boat?  Hint: Not tree support. 

  9. Posted

    Back to PS print...I am constructing an enclosure for my Ender 3 3D printer.  This will allow me (fingers crossed) to print with ABS filament.  The issue I have is the cross bars supporting the wing sections.  After removing the supports from the print the cross bars come with it.  Using ABS filament the model will be stronger and allow for smoothing with acetone.  More later.  If this adventure is bugging anyone.  I can hold off reporting on my semi weekly trials.

  10. Posted

    I've seen good things about that one.  I think the support is the best in the industry.  But...I would suggest you look into their Facebook pages and see what other users have experienced with that printer or other older Prusa models.  Good luck and try to remember it is a new-ish   industry so tinkering might be needed. Just this morning I had my BLTouch get stuck in the triggered position.  Took me a long bit to find it, after un-plugging and re-plugging stepper motor cables.  A search through my junk bin to replace the controller board. I finally found it and am printing again. ....

     

    Off topic: Taking a break on the PS print.  More on that fiasco later. 

  12. Posted

    Is there any demand for uploads of the STL files of ships?  I have two so far.  I would be happy to share.  I'm currently printing my PS in High resolution. It will be tomorrow before it is done so will post pics. It has been a journey.  So Kyp? an area for EnB related 3D models? 

    • Upvote 1

  13. Posted

    Thanks much...Had a brain fart and with the tutorial (you provided) I combined all parts in Blender. Doing a 17 hour print now.  Or possibly not if the supports turn out as fragile as they look.  Will keep you posted.

     

    Mim

    ------------------Edit --------------------

    Annnnd the supports didn't keep the print up.  Back to the drawing board

    • Upvote 1

  14. Posted

    Thanks.... exactly my issue. 

     

    A new problem is that one of the lower wings on latest print showed up about 25% smaller than the other.  Looked good in Cura, looked good in Meshlab but printed stunted.  I am going to try to rip apart and only print that one over.  Good times.  Think my next printer will be SLA.  print the whole thing at one small time.

     

     

    TempestNWK thank you for the video tutorial.

    • Upvote 1

  18. Posted

    No, bid on an Ender 3 on e-Bay.  Got it cheap and mostly regretted getting a used/discounted printer.  GREAT learning experience so <$200 and able to print was worth the "class" in 3D printing. Tried to upload pics but seems I am limited??? Hey boss up my limit please. :)  Started to save change and LMAO winning loto tickets to get a snapmaker .

  19. Posted

    Did my 1st print of EnB Progen Sentinel (Parts).  Came out tiny very very tiny.  Did another print @ 165%. A better size but it seems the game world 3D is not the same as real world 3D.  Support added but as soon as I removed them the part came apart.  I will need to modify the STL files I made to strengthen the supports and add some that don't exist.    So...anyone know how to un-group the parts? Will edit with Blender and or Meshmixer.

     

    Thanks in advance

    Mim

     

  24. Posted

    Your local IP looks weird. Mine is set to my local machine. 192.168.1.110....

     

    IP address 10.0.0.231 is registered by the Internet Assigned Numbers Authority (IANA) as a part of private network 10.0.0.0/24. IP addresses in the private space are not assigned to any specific organization, including your ISP (Internet Service Provider), and anybody may use these IP addresses without the consent of a regional Internet registry as described in RFC 1918, unlike public IP addresses. 

    However, IP packets addressed from a private range cannot be send through the public Internet, and so if such a private network needs to connect to the Internet, it has to be done through a network address translator (also called NAT) gateway, or a proxy server. 

    An example of a NAT gateway would be a wired or wireless router you receive from a broadband provider. The fixed IP address of such a device in network range 10.0.0.0/24 would generally be 10.0.0.1 or 10.0.0.254 depending on the provider. A gateway webinterface should be available through the HTTP (Hypertext Transfer Protocol) and/or HTTPS (Hypertext Transfer Protocol Secure) protocols. To try this you should enter 'http://ip address' or 'https://ip address' in the address bar of your favorite web browser like Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox and log in with the username and password provided by your provider. 

    You can use these types of (private network) IP addresses in your local network and assign it to your devices such as a personal computer, laptop, tablet and/or smartphone. It is also possible to configure a range within a DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) server to do the IP assigning automatically.

     

    May be your issue

     

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